Appalachian Trail: Days 21-30: April 27 – May 6, 2026

A commenter on my last blog post asked me to explain why I’m out here doing this. That’s not an easy question to answer. I’ve found that most other hikers are also vague in their rationale. In fact, I’ve yet to hear one person clearly and succinctly say why they’re out here. To best attempt to answer, I’d say it would have to be some combination of the following reasons:
 

• Because I’ve wanted to do it for many years
• It was supposed to be a special celebration of my 40th birthday, but I pushed it back to 42 *
• Because I thought it would be cool
• To get fit
• To be alone for a while **
• To say I did it
• To better connect with nature
• To prove that I can do it
• To get away from the news, culture, people
• To breathe fresh air and drink fresh water
• Because I feel a kinship with these mountains, and for some reason walking their length calls to me for an unknown reason

* Mom passed away when I turned 40, so I postponed hiking the AT two years.

** this is more complicated…


Hope that helps!

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Blog Entry 3: days 21-30 (April 27 – May 6, 2026)

Day 21: Monday, April 27, 2026 Little Laurel shelter to the Hogback Ridge shelter (22.8 mi)

I start the day feeling like I’m living the life of a deranged homeless person. Here’s a little thought experiment that some of my friends in Massachusetts will understand. Imagine waking up on Boston Common on a cool, damp morning. You eat some little packaged bar that you’ve been saving, go to the bathroom in the woods, then collect all your things, stuff them in a pack and decide: hey! Let’s walk up to the top of the Prudential Center Building. So you do that, with 30 lb on your back, taking the stairs like a lunatic, and then spend just a moment observing the view until you realize: hey! I’m trying to get to Tewksbury today (22 miles away) because, for some strange reason, you’ve decided to walk  2,200 mi from, say, your brother’s house in Providence to Bozeman, Montana…

…After getting down from the Prudential Center, you think: hey! I’m already sweaty, I might as well walk up to the top of the John Hancock Tower along the way. Tomorrow, you’ll do something similar and you’ll say to yourself: gee, maybe in a month I’ll reach Albany. Wouldn’t that be nifty?

That’s sort of what my days are like.

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Hiked just shy of 23 miles today. A creepy encounter at the beginning: as we were ascending some cliffs and open ridgeways that were pretty gnarly, I heard the rantings of a lunatic screaming up ahead: diabolical stuff, but rather unintelligible. I held back so I could make sure that Kristin was okay. She had heard it as well, (it was pretty freaking loud), and was glad that I stayed to walk with her. It turned out to be a hiker who we have seen with this dog over the last few days. He seemed OK when we saw him, and we passed safely. At a brief pause by a shelter, a larger group shared that — apparently — he’s been acting like this everyday. Everyday. Poor guy, I imagine he must be dealing with some interesting trauma.

The afternoon was long but not horrible for grade.

We got some awesome Trail Magic from a guy called Joe-hio (or Joehio? Joe-hi-ho? No idea how to spell that) who had hiked the AT back in 2024. He had beers, hot dogs, chips and soda. Nice.

I forgot to mention in my previous blog that a couple days ago, the former Mayor of Knoxville (and US Ambassador to Poland under George W Bush!) drove out to see me. I met him on a cruise three years earlier and he was excited about my hike. We had been in touch, and before he drove out he emailed asking if I needed food, medicine, etc. I (jokingly) replied that a bottle of Laphroaig 10 year old Scotch would be nice. Well, wouldn’t you know he brought me one? Talk about trail magic. Thanks, Victor! Anyways, the reason I bring it up now is that dinner that evening was two Snickers bars and Scotch. I couldn’t have been happier: I think it was my best dinner on trail, so far.

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Day 22: Tuesday, April 28
Hogback Ridge Shelter to Bald Mountain Shelter (10 mi)

Awoken by lightning and loud claps of thunder around 5:00am. The forecasters were right. I’m so glad we were in the shelter. The rain kept going and we slept in, knowing there was only a short distance to cover today, logistically. It was fun having “coffee in bed”

The morning hike was no joke. It started with gusty winds in a mist that was closer to cloud than fog. We descended to a highway crossing at Sam’s Gap where a hiker who was heading off trail shared food with us. He warned us of reports of Norovirus in shelters ahead. We took that warning seriously.

Slowly but surely the skies started to clear.

There was further trail magic (of sorts) during our ascent of Big Bald, where a local had left  fruit, snacks and drinks in coolers along the trail. The beers were gone (damn), but we had oranges and granola bars to help us along the rather grueling ascent of Big Bald. The summit of Big Bald was stunning. I’d say it was worth sleeping in just to have been able to take in the view from the top. We later learned that the clouds and fog completely obscured the view after we left, so our timing was impeccable.

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Day 23: Wednesday, April 29
Bald Mountain Shelter to Uncle Johnny’s Erwin, TN (17 mi)

Hiking just with Kristin (Devin carried on further alone yesterday), we got an early start, and the morning was beautiful with dark skies that threatened weather, but provided dramatic views. We walked through several sections of significant destruction from Hurricane Helene. Back in 2024 it really wiped out the forest in this area.

We enjoyed some views of the Nolichucky River as we passed over several PUDs (Pointless ups-and-downs)) during the eventual descent down to Erwin, TN.

We arrived around 3PM to Uncle Johnny’s Hiker Hostel, and reconnected with Devin. The resupply store was locked and no management was about. We made our way into our tiny cabin which, mercifully, was unlocked. Got laundry in. Showered. Took the 16:00 shuttle to Erwin, ate Taco Bell (I’m ashamed, but there was really no other option!) and bought too much food at the supermarket. A massive disappointment with the South is the utter lack of healthy food options… or appetizing ones, for that fact.

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Day 24: Thursday, April 30
Uncle Johnny’s to tentsite on Hurricane Helene detour (20mi)

The rhododendrons are blooming!

Morning (three pots of coffee, pastries) at Uncle Johnny’s. There was a scale on the porch. Some people were telling me it was inaccurate but, either way, it read 162 pounds. I had weighed in at 183.4 three weeks ago at Marv and Beedee’s home in Blairsville. I don’t doubt that I have in fact lost over twenty pounds so far.

Hurricane Helene destroyed the bridge over which the AT passed, so the hostel offered us a ride to the other side in the back of the caretaker’s Tacoma: six of us plus bags, and two dogs–the gate wide open and the road speeding away behind us–rather exciting, if not dangerous! Cooler weather today. Ascent and  Trail Magic at Indian Grave Gap. Good ascent up to Beauty Spot in cool weather. We are all feeling good, especially after all the food we ate last night. The summit was beautiful, but it was very windy on top… We carried on and found a great picnic spot under a tree in a meadow. Blissful.

On top of Unaka Mountain was a beautiful, eerie green pine forest. Forest workers were cleaning up fallen trees: such an amazing amount of destruction. We thanked them for the superb work they’re doing to get the trail back to rights. Further on, the trail was yet unpassable, so we followed a detour that took us over country roads and ludicrously steep hills. We camped off the side of the path, before the end of the detour.

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Day 25: Friday, May 1
Tentsite on Hurricane Helene detour to Stan Murray Shelter (tenting nearby) (20 mi)

The Walk up Roan Mountain wasn’t as bad as I had heard. The trail was in good shape. Yes, it was a long way up, but the grade wasn’t that bad. Summit over 6,000 feet elevation and not much to see on top. Fascinating that in the late 19th century, the elegant and grand Cloudland Hotel was perched on this lofty mountain, but there’s really nothing of the place left. The trail off the summit was rough on the feet, but it led us to the real gems of the day: three consecutive balds after Roan Mountain. Really spectacular, but the winds and the cold made lingering less than attractive. 

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Day 26: Saturday, May 2 (my birthday!)
Stan Murray Shelter to Mountaineer Falls Shelter (19.8 mi)

Trillian (Kristin) surprised me with a squished blueberry muffin she had been carrying for over a hundred miles–studded with two candles burning for my birthday. It was very special. It was a cold morning. Very cold. 35⁰

Hiking seemed slow, but then the miles started adding up as the day went on. That might seem obvious, but the way time moved today was different.

We hiked up two great balds: Little Hump and Hump Mountain. It was frigid. Devin and I chatted with a hiker from Vermont on Little Hump and we all ate a Snickers. During the walk, Devin and I met local foragers who helped us identify Ramps and a kind of mountain lettuce. At camp, we used our fresh produce to spruce up soup with sauteed ramps, extra pasta and fresh carrots, and Devin made a sautee of ramp and lettuce that we put over Trillian’s mashed potatoes. We all feasted together. I had two Snickers as a birthday treat.

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Day 27: Sunday, May 3
Mountaineer Falls Shelter to Braemar Castle Hostel in Hampton, TN (~16mi)

Nice morning at the shelter. Saw a huge spider.

Hit the 400 mile mark.

Relatively easy going with few views, mostly downhill but several PUDs. Got picked up around 16:45 by Ben from Braemar Castle, and taken to the sad town of Hampton, TN. It didn’t help that it was a Sunday: the only thing open was a Dollar General that had no produce. I had hoped to cook us all a nice dinner. I was feeling so depressed. There was a Dunkin Donuts so I figured a coffee would cheer me up. They put way more sugar in it than I asked for, so it was essentially ruined. Back at the hostel, Trillian made a Knorr Rice and there was a bag of refried beans left by some other hiker so we “enjoyed” that in a tortilla wrap with some horrible frozen French fries. A couple beers helped. Ate way too much junk food. Slept OK

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Day 28: Monday, May 4
Hampton, TN (Braemar Castle) to Vandeventer Shelter (18 miles)

Hard waking up. Crazy dreams last night. Shared multiple pots of coffee with Trillian and Devin along with a Dunkin Donuts muffin from yesterday and Little Debby donuts.

I knew before coming down for the hike that food was going to be a challenge. I’ve traveled through enough small-town America and Southern towns to know that people here don’t have very refined palates. The town of Hampton, Tennessee made me incredibly sad all the same. I’m glad I saw it. I’m glad I witnessed it. It didn’t satisfy me in ways that I needed (hunger); however, it reinforced feelings that I’ve had for quite a while. Namely, how sad it is that so many Americans live as they do. There was nowhere to eat. The only restaurants were diners, and they all closed at 3:00 p.m.. There was a tap house, but they didn’t serve food. The only place to buy food was the Dollar General, and there was no produce. We had a kitchen in the hostel, but really all we could manage to put together were frozen meals. It was horrible. It was devoid of nutrition. And yet, I feel that so many people in America are living every day of their life like this. I’m supposing that maybe it’s really not as bad as I’m thinking, but probably not far off.

I also know that I’m going to be in this predicament for a little while longer. I have a strong craving for wholesome food, but perusing the menus of restaurants in the upcoming towns isn’t filling me with a lot of hope. It’s a personal gripe, but it makes me so mad that burgers seem to be the only thing some people eat. Where are the vegetables? How about fish? Pasta? Salads? Things that require a fork and a knife!? I was getting excited about Damascus, because it’s so renowned and revered as probably the best ‘Hiker Town’. Last night I looked at restaurants on Google Maps, and everything was just burgers, pizza or fast food. One place advertised itself as the premiere location and even called itself a fine dining restaurant. The menu? Burgers. What the bloody hell? Oh, but they had meatloaf on the menu. Fancy.

Eventually my spirits lifted. In part it helped that I listened to Scriabin’s Piano Concerto and a really good interpretation of his third piano sonata (played by Yuja Wang in her Vienna Recital: excellent, clear rendition with amazing voicing of the many complicated phrases in that work). In part, it was hiking around the beautiful Watauga Lake and crossing its dam. In part, it was getting my mind off of food.

We shared the Vandeventer Shelter with Pirate, a nice guy who’s meeting his dad in Damascus soon. Behind the shelter was a lovely view of the lake.

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Day 29: Tuesday, May 5, 2026. Vandeventer Shelter to Abingdon Gap Shelter at 460.8. (22.8 miles)

Frankly, rather an easy day given the milage. Nothing special, just nice walking. Shortest journal entry yet, and completely sufficient.

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Day 30: Wednesday, May 6, 2026. Abingdon Gap Shelter to Damascus: “The Place”

Hiking thru rain all morning, but it was fine: almost fun, in a weird way. We made great time and I exited the woods and found myself in the pleasant suburban surroundings of Damascus, Virginia. Didn’t seem so bad. One thing I was particularly excited about was collecting a package from home! My neighbor sent me some resupply goods, and hinted that some fresh goodies were also in there for my birthday, so I skipped to the Post Office to collect it.

Trillian, Devin and I convened at a restaurant called the Tipsy Bear where I opened my package and found fresh muffins, homemade Linzer Torte, lots of fresh coffee (!!!) and delicious chocolates (all of that in addition to the sundries that would sustain me for the next few days on trail). A beautiful birthday card from Marie and Clifford rounded it out and was a touching gift from home.

A gentleman at the bar told us about “The Place”: a  hostel connected with the town’s Methodist Church — much cheaper than hostel we were considering, it was only a suggested $10 donation.

We headed there and met the caretaker “Bayou”, a charming fellow who runs the place efficiently, in his own particular way. He laid out all the rules, and handwritten notes were posted absolutely everywhere in case we glossed over any of the finer details: during which hours one could shower, which crisper in the fridge was out of bounds, quiet hours, “no dogs, drugs or alcohol”, etc etc etc. The Place was very basic, but absolutely charming. I loved it. I loved the convivial atmosphere and all the laid-back conversations that ensued. “Turtle” from St. Louis stayed with us and we discussed everything under the sun. Although I had everything I needed, I joined Trillian and Devin for a walk to the supermarket. On the way back, I ate a tub of ice cream and enjoyed the beautiful weather. It felt like a fine summer’s evening, carefree and blissful.