The Skinny:
- Hot hiking 🔥
- The Triple Crown 🏔️
- Daleville, VA: a brief break 😴
- Wet hiking ☔
- Friends in Lexington, VA: real food! 🍝
Day 41: Sunday, May 17th, 2026
Rice Field Shelter to tentsite just north of Wind Rock
The day started out fine enough. We got an early start, before 7:30AM. The kids (Scouts?) that camped by the shelter were making “Monkey Balls” when we left, using some contraption to steam bake using a camp stove. The temptation to see the result was superceded by the need to get in some miles before the worst of the heat. Terrain and grade were not bad until after lunch. I saw a big, black rat snake (harmless) right in the middle of the trail that made me shriek (a little girlishly). After I collected myself, we calmly passed each other and all was well.
After lunch, the temps were HOT, the climb was grueling, the miles seemed to multiply; and then came the rocks. I figured this was a preview of what was to come in “Rocksylvania”: nasty, gnarly, sharp rocks: uneven, loose, precarious… each one an opportunity for a rolled ankle. And then there were the flies. Oh, the flies: gnats, no-see-ums, deer flies, lantern flies… Honestly, this afternoon was the most dispiriting, unpleasant hiking thus far. We reached a tentsite at the ominous mile mark of 666 and set up camp. Trillian remarked we probably won’t see trail magic again for a while, at least nothing special–maybe some free water. Morale low. Tomorrow is another day.
Day 42: Monday, May 18th, 2026
Tentsite at Mile 666 to Niday Shelter at 688.6 (22.6)
After a tough, dispiriting day came magic. The most amazing magic. Trail magic. With beer!
Easy Boy and his dog Molly were set up two-thirds the way up a steep climb with what can only be deemed the best Trail Magic setup I’ve seen before: a hand washing station, fruit, snacks, beer, soda, candy, bug spray… the works. We went from depressed to elated in moments. These encounters are called magic for a good reason. Thank you, Easy Boy!
After some more grueling climbing through hot weather, Trillian and I stopped for a picnic along a country road. An older fellow stopped alongside and asked if we wanted a cold drink. Another trail angel, he was driving home after giving out snacks to hikers at another road crossing. He treated us to grapes, oranges and soda. Score!
Day 43: Tuesday, May 19th, 2026
Niday Shelter to Tentsite at 708.8
Buggy as all hell. Muggy, too. Big climb up Brush Mountain, but I powered through it. Fun to cross over another milestone: 700 miles.
During the afternoon, I climbed up to the first of three big landmarks known collectively as the Triple Crown of central Virginia: Dragon’s Tooth, McAfee Knob and Tinker Cliffs. The latter two would be reached tomorrow, but the climb up to, and then down from Dragon’s Tooth was on punishing rock that did its best to destroy my feet.
Day 44: Wednesday, May 20th, 2026
Tentsite at 708.8 to hotel in Dalevillle, VA at 731.1
Early start. Good hiking up to both McAfee Knob and the beautiful Tinker Cliffs. Luckily, the trail wasn’t too full of day hikers: maybe the benefit of getting here on a Wednesday.
The afternoon was grueling, however, with interminable hiking in stifling hot temos. The town of Dalevillle seemed to be just out of reach–visible from the ridge we walked on, but never getting any closer–as we flanked it on this long ridge. The slow descent took us under high tension power lines that hung so low as to be truly unnerving. Signs that read “DO NOT STOP UNDER WIRES: POSSIBILITY OF STATIC DISCHARGE” along with the realization that, with the temperature being what it was, everyone must be blasting their Air Conditioning, made this a rather anxious crossing!
Finally, we exited the woods right by an Exxon where I immediately bought a gatorade and an adult beverage. Had the Gatorade first. Trillian and I checked in at an adjacent hotel, went to a supermarket to resupply, ordered mediocre Mexican food and ‘vegged’ out watching trashy TV shows in the gloriously sterile, air conditioned hotel room.
Day 45: Thursday, May 21, 2026
Hilton in Dalevillle, VA to Fullhardt Knob Shelter
The heat from the previous days had taken its toll: attempts at an early morning gave way to being a bit lazy and eating multiple breakfasts, not to mention loads of coffee. Trillian and I decided we needed an easy day. Heavy rain was scheduled to come through, so we figured we’d hike five miles to Fullhardt Knob Shelter and wait it out. It was so muggy that my shirt was soaked within minutes. So much for the laundry we did the night before. Lazing around in the shelter was fun, and we tried to plan for the coming weeks, with a visit from Linda and Roland (folks I met on a cruise) in Lexington, possible slackpacking, and then Marie and Clifford’s upcoming visit in Shenandoah.
Day 46: Friday, May 22, 2026
Fullhardt Knob Shelter to Cove Mountain Shelter at 756.1
A change in the weather. It felt like purgatory. Twenty miles; wet, but not soaking. Cold,but not freezing. No views. Limbo. Even saw a sign for a ‘view’ of Purgatory Mountain, but there was no view, of course: just fog. Upon reaching our destination for the night, two quiet older men were already in their sleeping bags. It was 5:30PM. Felt like we had to be quiet. Was so cold and damp… Meh.
Day 47: Saturday, May 23, 2026
Cove Mountain Shelter to Thunder Hill Shelter at 773.3
The quiet guy from last night, as well as his friend (who had slept in a hammock overnight) were more sociable in the morning. We got going around 8:30. Cold morning. In the fog again. Hiking through fog and rain this morning.
Definitely a lot of uphill, but the trail has been lovely. Hiking alongside “Stanimal” quite a bit today. He showed me how to identify Sassafras: a natural mosquito repellent. Very happy to know how to spot it now. Delightful little stop at a shelter before noon, made another two pots of espresso–that was great. Feeling hungry and want to get good energy in for all the climbing today. Shared Thunder Hill Shelter with “Duque” and “Brewski”, made pasta with peas, red pepper and sun-dried tomatoes; shared that with Trillian, who made mashed potatoes (with wasabi peas (pretty tasty, that!))
Day 48: Sunday, May 24th, 2026
Thunder Hill Shelter to Stanimals Hostel in Glasgow, VA
Pleasant morning in shelter. Coffee in bed. It’s not raining. Maybe a ray of sunshine!? My poncho fell off its hook and got soaked through the night. “Duque” forgot some Oreos in his pack and a mouse ate right through the bag.
Only 13 miles or so to get to Stanimals (the hostel, not the hiker). Hope it doesn’t rain.
It didn’t rain that much….
Arrived at the road to Glasgow and had Trail Magic from “Sir Stops a Lot”: chicken quesadilla and snacks and Gatorade. Nice.
Day 49: Memorial Day: Monday, May 25th, 2026
Stanimals (shuttle to James River Br) to Long Mountain Wayside (US-60), ride to Lexington: stay at Hampton Inn Lexington
Our first slackpacking day! The staff from the hostel delivered our heavy packs (for a fee) to our destination for the night, such that we only had to hike with the essentials (poncho, water, snacks) in a day pack. It rained pretty much all day. I felt great. 22 miles, much easier without the weight of my pack.
Walked pretty much without a break. Crossed the 800 mile mark with minimal to moderate fanfare. Arrived at Long Mountain Wayside just before 5PM, where we were to meet Linda and Roland, who drove out from near Richmond, VA to see me. It was about a thirty minute ride to Lexington. Linda and Roland gifted me a bottle of Virginia Rye Whisky as well as snacks and stickers and such. So very nice! Got showered and ready for dinner.
Being Memorial Day, things seemed closed when perusing online, but more locales was open than we thought–including the one place that had a piano: open outside of normal hours because of college graduation (Washington and Lee College). We had a terrific dinner (real food!) at Haywood’s, and I even got to play the piano for all present. That was nice. I had a Manhattan, carrot ginger soup, Pasta Alla Primavera, a glass of Pinot Gris and Carrot Cake. Delicious.
Day 50: Tuesday, May 26th, 2026
Lexington, VA (ride to Long Mountain Wayside (US-60)) to Priest Shelter at 830.5
Breakfast with Trillian, Linda and Roland at the Hampton Inn. Waffles: pretty good! Coffee just ok… Jeez, two days without MY coffee?! Not good!
Definitely noticed the weight of my pack after a day of slackpacking yesterday. Quite a lot of up today. No rain, per se, but wet overall–damp, actually, would be more fitting. Few views, still hiking in cloud.
Tasty dinner of ramen with peanut butter, nuts, cheese, followed up with a big cookie and some whisky. Superb. Let’s see what tomorrow brings!
Stay tuned: next blog is a big one! More visitors! Shendoah! Views!
I had NO idea about trail magic??? How is that I’ve never heard of or seen trail magic around New England?? Lol. Am I not going to the right places or are the north easters not as kind? lolol
So, I understand there is less of it in New England but, that is yet to be confirmed!
You should go out and be a trail angel, tho!
Always exciting to see your updates, Carl. Hope you find some more pianos to play on your hike.
I hope so, too!