The Skinny:
- Virginia Blues: blue blazes, that is…
- Waynesboro: so friendly…
- Shendoah: family reunion…
I’ve never eaten so much junk food sugar in all my life. Hiker hunger is affecting me now, and my weakness is all the sugary junk I usually deny myself. It might just be the best part of the hike: eat as many cakes, Snickers bars, Twizzlers, whatever — and still lose weight. Carte blanche.
I met a hiker a few days ago who says he’s carrying 4lb tubs of peanut butter: because he’s eating A POUND of PEANUT BUTTER EVERY DAY. Take a moment to digest (😂) that thought…
Day 51: Wednesday, May 27, 2026
“Priest” Shelter to Maupin Field Shelter (via Mau-Har (blue blaze) trail)
Lots of coffee this morning at the Priest shelter. Too much information here, but: one of the nicest privies I’ve ever seen–maybe the best: brand new and–interestingly–ADA compliant: wheelchair accessible and all. You could easily pitch a tent in there and spend the night. I’d like to build one of these at my place. I made good use of it. Ok, that’s enough about that. Let’s talk about blue blazing.
All blazes (markers) on the Appalachian Trail are white: great for hikers to know they’re on track. To be a ‘purist’, hikers don’t deviate from the official, white-blazed Appalachian Trail. The official AT meanders in a Northeasterly direction but deviates frequently, sometimes maddeningly, to (as it seems to us sometimes) put hikers through as much torture as possible. Side trails often use blue blazes for identification, and to follow alternative routes is to stray from being a purist. Well. Seeing the map above, the blue-blazed “Mau-Har Trail” is a fine, tricky trail that carries the hiker in the desired Northeasterly direction, past waterfalls and over very steep rock scrambles. It also saves several miles and several peaks on the circuitous, winding, official trail, which heads South, before looping around and climbing over several tall peaks (that wouldn’t have any views this day, anyways, with the weather!). I have yet to stray from purist ways, but that all went out the window today. I had little regret taking the blue blazes on this occasion.
Along the Mau-Har trail, there was a beautiful, long cascade and we stopped for a while to soak our feet–which then became numb. After moving again, though, my feet felt great. It was a steep slog up to the Maupin Field Shelter. There, we saw “Tank Engine” (from NH) and Jack and Sue (also from NH (and RI)). We debated hiking further, but I was happy to stay: we’d get an early start tomorrow for the walk into Waynesboro. As it happened, thunderstorms came (as predicted) and dropped copious rain. We stayed nice and dry. Eventually, Kodiak showed up, dried off a bit, and shared his background as a pediatrician. He’s in the process of moving to British Colombia where he feels the work (and the workload) will be more manageable, not to mention fair. In Georgia, hospitalists were telling him he needed to see five patients per hour. His girlfriend is a lawyer representing German-owned wind turbine farms both in Europe and in the US. Neat sounding history they have. After we prepared dinner, Partly Sunny showed up and shared the Shelter with us.
Day 52: Thursday, May 28th, 2026
Maupin Field Shelter to Waynesboro, VA
Early start. Progress hampered by long stretches of walking on horrible rocks: the kinds that want to twist your ankle at every step — misshapen, loose, often wet, and always with the sharp edges facing up. Feet taking a beating. The day is beautiful, however.
I met a woman day-hiking who asked me if I was headed into Waynesboro, and whether I needed a ride. She (Myra) seemed awfully happy to help us, so we exchanged numbers. We arranged for Myra to pick us up at Rockfish Gap at 4:20. We emerged from the woods right on time JUST as she pulled up. Perfection. Not a stranger to hikers, she had towels for the car seats, and some goodies for us (a beer for me: thank YOUUUU!). She proceeded to show us ‘town’, and dropped us at the post office, where Trillian had a package to collect. Then we resupplied at the supermarket and went right to the local Indian restaurant for a delicious dinner. The rumors about Waynesboro being a hiker friendly town were indeed true!
Day 53: Friday, May 29, 2026
Waynesboro to Tentsite at 889.6 (24.5 mi)
Long day. Started packing up early and made breakfast in the hotel room: espresso and pound cake. Thumbed a ride and got to trail at a good time. Started hiking at 7:30. Officially in Shenandoah National Park now. A neat feature of the park are concrete columns that act as directional signposts.
Stopped for lunch at twelve and, seeing a truck approaching, I said to Trillian: “that looks like Myra’s truck”. Sure enough, it was! She and her husband, returning from doing trail maintenance, sat with us and had a bite. They shared the remaining beer from when she picked me up yesterday, which I put in my water filter bag (with some of their ice) and some seven-layer bars. Amazing.
We walked another ten miles before making dinner at another parking area. The beer I put on ice was still pretty cold, and I ate nuts, ramen with peanut butter and lots of M&Ms. The evening was gorgeous. It was a challenge to get going again, after 20 miles, but the last push wasn’t awful.
Day 54: Saturday, May 30, 2026
Tentsite at 889.6 to Swift Run Gap (910.4) for Elkton, VA
A big day! Meeting Marie-Thérèse and Clifford, who drove down to hike with me for a couple days! That said, there were a lot of miles to cover to reach the meeting place! Started early, and Trillian and I decided to walk five miles on Skyline Drive, the scenic road that used to be the Appalachian Trail. This is another example of breaching with purist ways BUT, I don’t feel guilty for our occasional walks on Skyline Drive. All the good views are there, and we are still walking from Georgia to Maine!! The walk so early in the morning was absolutely beautiful; peaceful.
We made great time getting to the meetup point and it was wonderful to see Marie and Cliff. We drove to our lodging for the night, and prepared for dinner. To make the night even more special, my Aunt and her wife Jean made a detour on their drive back home from Georgia (they were visiting family) to meet us! My Aunt brought fresh muffins, and I polished one off before we all went out for dinner.
Day 55: Sunday, May 31st, 2026
Swift Run Gap to Big Meadows
Time to hike with Marie-Thérèse and Clifford! We did a BIG hike together: the plan was to get to Big Meadows Lodge in Shenendoah Park. That’s a long walk, but Marie and Cliff have been practicing with their packs back home! Jean was very kind to drive us to the trailhead, and we got a nice early start at 7:45.
Finally we climbed up to the gorgeous lodge that is Big Meadows. We were all spent, but I was so proud of Marie and Cliff hiking such a long day with us. We ate a nice meal in the dining room and saved room for the famous Blackberry Ice Cream Pie.
Day 56: Monday, June 1st, 2026
Big Meadows to Skyland
Off we go! Another exciting day hiking with Marie-Thérèse and Clifford. We did a combination of hiking the actual trail, and taking in some of the views from Skyline Drive. (Those road walks are a good way to get more miles in less time, too!)
We made it to Skyland Wayside and had a nice lunch there, as well as peruse the gift shop for goodies. Clifford saw they had root beer, and I saw they had beer beer, so we just had to indulge!
That evening we camped out and enjoyed a hiker meal together. Clifford was so excited to sleep in a tent, I’m sure he’s still telling everyone about it!
Day 57: Tuesday, June 2nd, 2026
Big Meadows campground to Byrd’s Nest 3 Shelter
We all woke to wet tents: some not-so-forecasted rain came through during the early morning hours, and that made breaking down camp just that little bit more enjoyable entertaining. Toni, a friend of Myra’s (Waynesboro!) gave us a ride back to Marie-Thérèse’s car in Elkton, without even allowing us to give her a penny, or even fill up her car with gas! The kindness of these trail angels borders on incredible! I’m still thinking of a way to thank Myra and Toni!
We drove Marie’s car back towards where we got off trail via a fun detour: I had recently met the owner of a Virginia winery on one of my cruises. As a happy coincidence, his winery was quite near the Appalachian Trail — so we paid a visit for wine tasting and lunch at the gorgeous DuCard Winery. I highly recommend a visit if passing anywhere near Shenendoah!
After a bittersweet goodbye to Clifford and Marie-Thérèse, Trillian and I continued hiking, with beautiful trails taking us over ‘The Pinnacle’ during the final miles of Shenendoah National Park. We had a fun night chatting with hikers in the Byrd’s Nest 3 Shelter.
Day 58: Wednesday, June 3rd, 2026
From Byrd’s Nest 3 Shelter to unofficial Tentsite at 963.1
Shorthand version: Coffee in bed at shelter. ~8:00am start. 11.75 miles to Elkwallow Wayside for lunch with Trillian: split a grilled cheese and tomato sandwich and an impossible burger. Had a nice big beer. Snacks. Blackberry milkshake. Cool in the shade. Nice.
Thought about changing schedule to do lighter days and get in to Harper’s Ferry on Sunday instead of Saturday… Walked .2 downhill to the Gravel Springs Hut, which was nice, but pretty full. In addition, a large, black rat snake was in the rafters. There was nowhere left to pitch tents. Found the unofficial Tentsite we were after, but it was taken — by Ratatouille, and his girlfriend. We hemmed and hawed over what to do, and eventually set up tent next to them. It was their first night camping together. Jeez, didn’t wanna interrupt their space. Ah well, there really wasn’t much other option: it was late anyways.
Day 59: Thursday, June 4th, 2026
Tentsite at 963.1 to Denton Shelter
After a long climb in the morning, there was a two-mile stretch of gorgeous, flat, rock-free trail that was just magic. So nice to walk on. Kind of wish it would last forever.
Eventually made it to the awesome Denton Shelter, with it’s own porch, dinner pavilion, horseshoes and, of course, the solar shower!Eventually “Camel”, “Partly Sunny” and “Box of Chocolates” showed up. Nice dinner: pasta with tuna and lots of yummy Parmigiano cheese.Only Trillian, Box of Chocolates and I slept in the shelter. Very buggy.
Day 60: Friday, June 5th, 2026
Denton Shelter to tentsite at 999.7
Moderate hiking through the morning hours. Exited the woods and stopped at the roadside
Mountain Gap Market for lunch: quiche, beer, chips, donut, ice cream, more chips: perfect! Afterwards, the afternoon was stifling. All those greasy chips, sugary sweets and beer were nice at the time, but then with the heat and the climbing, I wished I hadn’t had them! Eventually, we got a second wind, and even decided to push further, entering the “roller coaster” and getting almost to mile 1,000. So exciting!
Stay tuned! Next issue sees us finally getting out of Virginia!
We are really enjoying your travel log Fresh. Glad you are doing all of the work. We think of you often and pray for your safety as your Mother would. Good job finding joy in your good and trying days. How can you not with Trillian by your side? It is amazing what you have accomplished. Your Mom would be so proud of you. Cheers. Tonnie and Dana
I am so enjoying these posts, and you look healthy at a level way off the chart. Your smile says it all. Carry on, Maestro! And if you can find Tart Cherry Juice anywhere on a town visit, drink lots. Best antioxidant juice in existence AND an analgesic. Good for stamins and for sore feet on a long journey.
I am so enjoying these posts, and you look healthy at a level way off the chart. Your smile says it all. Carry on, Maestro! And if you can find Tart Cherry Juice anywhere on a town visit, drink lots. Best antioxidant juice in existence AND an analgesic. Good for stamins and for sore feet on a long journey.
I’m gonna try to have a double vodka and tart cherry juice as soon as I can find some!
So fun to see your Shenandoah update! You’ll need to come back when you have time to enjoy the blue blazed trails. And how ironic you hiked Mau-Har! I hiked it with friends about a week later and we passed another thru hiker taking the scenic route. 😉😂 that hiker’s name was “Diesel”, then I met Reality Check and Stomper in Waynesboro the next day and gave them a lift back up the mountain. Keep on truckin’ Fresh and journaling. And tell Trillian I said Hi! I’m enjoying your journey ! 💚
Hahaha, mum’s the word about my blue blazing! Haha, all kidding aside, I don’t regret it!