In the last installment of "Fresh's Appalachian Adventures", my journey took me through home territory, the beautiful State of New Hampshire. This episode is the real deal: the big boys: the White Mountains in all their (torturous) glory...
Beware: this post contains MANY gorgeous photos of the mountains.
Day 111: Sunday, July 26, 2026
Zero day at Home
The whole reason I’m here–why I’m living in New Hampshire and hiking the Appalachian Trail and spending so much time sharing my stories about the nature I hike through–is because I fell in love with these Mountains at a young age. As a child, one week of our summer vacation–and, undoubtedly my favorite week of every year–was our timeshare rental in Lincoln, New Hampshire at the Village of Loon Mountain. During that week, my family and I would do touristy things and relax and eat all the fun snackfoods, but we’d always hike, at least once. The impact on me was profound, and a deep love for these hills was born. I always looked forward to coming back, and eventually decided to study in New Hampshire for my undergraduate years. The job I landed at the William Tell Restaurant in Waterville Valley clinched everything, as I started to be welcomed into the ‘local’ community. Given the opportunity to buy land and make my vacation space my home space, I never hesitated.
Despite living up here now, I still maintain the timeshare rental. This year I booked it for the last week of July, with the thought that maybe some family members would enjoy it. It just so happened that my hiking through the region coincided perfectly. My brother and his family were staying for a few days, and my Aunts and Cousins were coming up so we could all visit.
What an excuse for a Zero day! Being Sunday, I went to Mass with Marie and Clifford, then grabbed delicious pastry and coffee in the Lakes Region. On the way back, I stopped off to buy gifts for all the birthdays I’d missed in the months I’ve been gone, plus other little goodies for my nieces and nephews who I haven’t seen in ages…
During the evening, we all got together in the very space where my love affair with New Hampshire began: the vacation rental at Loon Mountain. This is our 40th year visiting, and how special to be with my most precious family members as I (literally) hiked through.
Before we ate, my nephew Michael gave the most touching tribute to my Mother, who we all miss terribly. It was a special coincidence that it also just happened to be her birthday. I know that she’s been walking with me every day of my hike, guiding my steps and keeping me safe just as she did in that picture above, so many years ago. It amazes me to reflect that I am roughly as old now as she was when that picture was taken.
Day 112: Monday, July 27, 2026
From Kinsman Notch to Franconia Notch, just off Mile 1,824.8
Break time is over: back to work! Morning at Home, it was fun to have pastries that I brought back from the previous morning. Trillian and I got back to the trailhead and started hiking around 8:00 a.m. We were treated to an absolutely gorgeous morning. It started with a steep ascent up from the road, then gentle ups and downs through the morning hours. We would hike up South and then North Kinsman Mountains before descending down to Franconia Notch via Kinsman Pond.
Day 113: Tuesday, July 28, 2026
to Galehead Hut at Mile 1,837.6
I woke up at home and made coffee. My head was so blurred it was like getting up for a super early flight–on autopilot, the details vague. The shape of the day began to materialize and sips of coffee brought me to life: I was going to hike the Franconia Ridge!
Marie-Thérèse and Clifford drove up to my house just before 6:00 a.m. and we packed up her car and drove up to Franconia Notch. The morning was beautiful, but the extra early start was in part to get ahead of the forecasted weather. Trillian and I started hiking before 7:00, and immediately the hike up to the ridge began. Eventually we moved from the direct-line climb and turned left (North) to walk the famous ridgeline that creates the Western wall of the Pemigewasset Wilderness. No matter how many times I hike this, it’s just stunning. I was so happy that Trillian had the opportunity to see it in fair weather. Clouds started rolling in, but it remained dry and added to the dramatic landscape.
After descending Lafayette, the climbing became quite tiring and the push up Mt. Garfield wore on us. We were aiming for Galehead Hut, with the hope to Work-for-stay (each Hut allows two thru-hikers to stay for free in exchange for doing some chores). Once we arrived, we were really tired, and the sky looked threatening. The crew (croo, in hut lingo) advised us they already had two hikers who beat us to it. Drat. They advised us where some tentsites were nearby. Trillian and I lingered, not really wanting to go back out in the weather. I had noticed two bunks were marked as ‘CANCELLED’ on the caretaker’s register and, after a little hemming and hawing, we inquired about the price. We braced ourselves. The cost was high, but not shocking. We decided to splurge. As soon as we made the decision, the rain began to fall outside.
The experience in the hut was great: comfortable, dry and warm, and the croo cooked a lovely dinner. Afterwards, all the hikers started retiring to their bunks to snore and fart the night away, ourselves included.
Day 114: Wednesday, July 29, 2026
to Crawford Notch at Route 302, Mile 1,852.5
We woke and packed up our gear before most other hikers got up. The croo put out coffee at 6:00 a.m., so we enjoyed our pastries with some coffee and then got going. On trail before 7:00 a.m. for the slow, tough climb up South Twin Mountain. After The descent, the grade got a little easier. We were socked in with fog and clouds, but thankfully, there was no rain.
We stopped for lunch at Zealand Falls Hut, and saw the croo preparing their packs to take trash down and then resupply the hut. It was raining outside, but only gently. As we descended down to Crawford Notch, there were portions where the trail was an absolute river, and the maintenance was not good. The bog bridges were submerged (or non-existent) and we tried our best not to get our feet soaked.
Eventually we made it out to the road, and Marie and Clifford were there waiting for us. Back home, Trillian and I prepared zucchini and spaghetti as well as butter beans with a tomato sauce that Trillian made–that was delicious. We had that with some toasted bread, got the house ready to be all closed up, and went to sleep.
Day 115: Thursday, July 30, 2026
to Lakes of the Clouds Hut at Mile 1,863.4
Left my house for the last time around 7:00 a.m. I drove Marie’s car with us all up to Crawford Notch. We enter the Presidentials: Lakes of the Clouds Hut was the goal for the evening…
The climbing started with a steep ascent up wet rocks to the Webster Cliffs. There, we met up with and learned that the two young girls that got Work-for-stay the other night at Galehead Hut aren’t through hikers at all, but are only doing a seven-day stretch through the Whites. Bullshit.
Pressed on and made it to Lakes of the Clouds by 4:30 p.m. There, we saw “Van Gogh” and “Newman”. Excitingly, there were two work-for-stay positions available, and the “dungeon” was completely open. Nevertheless, we decided to be unashamedly indulgent and pay for two bunks. The croo member, knowing we were thru-hikers, was really nice and gave us an entire bunkroom all to ourselves. Even though there were a lot of hikers there, the place was definitely not full. We got situated and enjoyed watching the beautiful view out the window, seeing the Mount Washington Hotel down below on one side and dramatic clouds looking down into the valley on the other.
Dinner was fun; we sat with triple crowners “Dr. Za” and “Always”: definitely a lot of fun conversation with them–both guys probably in their 60s–very admirable how well they’re hiking. (Triple Crown refers to completion of the Appalachian Trail, the Pacific Crest Trail and the Continental Divide Trail: a BIG DEAL.) The dinner was pretty good: salad, red bean soup, lasagna, brownies… I followed this with Scotch and a Snickers in my bunk until sleep overtook me…
Day 116: Friday, July 31, 2026
to Osgood Tentsite at Mile 1,873.4
Breakfast in the Hut: hey, no pancakes!? There was no time to complain, however: Mount Washington awaited! Trillian and I hit the trail early and got to the summit of Mt. Washington at 8:45 a.m., in a cloud; all the facilities were shut, doors locked.
The summit visitor center finally opened, we had (more) coffee, charged our things, signed in and waited for a view. Didn’t come. However…
The ascent up Mt. Madison, the next peak, was phenomenal under clearing skies: beautiful views abounded on all sides, though the hiking was challenging.
There was then an equally steep descent, reaching tree line and continuing down to Osgood Camp, where we set up our tents on a pleasant evening and made ramen with peanut butter. Nice.
Day 117: Saturday, August 1, 2026
to Imp Shelter at Mile 1,891.4
Up and out by 7:00 a.m., we descended to Route 16, following the Appalachian Trail detour: we would miss the Wildcats, but I was OK with this: I’ll hike them separately sometime soon. This detour was put in place because of an unsafe bridge, and we felt no shame in taking the (easier) reroute. After rejoining the trail, we climbed steeply to the Carter Notch Hut. It was very cute and the morning was gorgeous. The cook had put out leftover blueberry pancakes and we tried to eat them all. I think I had five. They were the first damned blueberry pancakes I’d had all trail and, despite being cold, they were great. Hey, they were free!
We got back out and climbed steeply yet again to Carter Dome. Lots of hikers out for the weekend. Mount Hight afforded terrific views, then we pressed onwards to the remaining Carter summits.
The descent from North Carter was a challenging scramble down wet rocks. Eventually we got to the Imp Shelter, managed by a caretaker. After getting sorted, we enjoyed chatting with Sobo hiker “Grits”, and eventually were joined by section hikers and finally some overnight campers.
Day 118: Sunday, August 2, 2026
to Route 2 in Gorham, NH at Mile 1,899.3
Out by 7:00 a.m., hiked to the top of Mt. Moriah by 8:00. Lots of slab to ascend going up the Southern side of the mountain, but it afforded beautiful views. Initially, the descent was also quite steep, but it eventually became more gradual as we followed along the Rattle River. Got down to Route 2 and met with Marie and Clifford, who drove out and brought goodies. We had lunch outside a great restaurant, and afterwards assessed the weather. Given that storms were coming through, and we were pretty beat from the Presidentials, we decided to stop for the day and recuperate in Gorham.
Trillian and I stayed at the Five Corners, which was cheaper than the local hostel, and we had our own room with private bath. It was simple, but clean. The manager was very kind and brought us quarters and laundry detergent so we could clean our clothes across the street at another inn they managed.
We ate pizza and fries while our clothes dried, and tried to come up with a plan to take us through the gnarliest stretches in Southern Maine.
Day 119: Monday, August 3, 2026
to Gentian Pond Shelter at Mile 1,911.2
Rain was falling when we woke at Five Corners. Had first breakfast in the inn, then went to the coffee shop for more. Met some other hikers there. Tried hitching to trail but nobody picked us up. We texted Linda, the manager from the inn and she popped right around to take us to trail.
The rain held for MOST of the time we hiked. The going wasn’t too rough, and progress was good: closer to 2 mph, a speed we haven’t had in weeks. The first shelter, 12 miles from our start, was at Gentian Pond. I had hoped we would make it further, but about a mile before we got there, the rain absolutely dumped on us. We got soaked. In the end, we decided to stay there. Good choice, I think. The shelter was full of rather irritating hikers, and they kept showing up even after dark. They then started getting ready at 4:00 a.m. Somehow I managed to get enough sleep through all of that noise.
Day 120: Tuesday, August 4, 2026
Cross Maine border, to tentsite next to Mahoosuc Notch at Mile 1,922.6
Beautiful start to the day. Forecasted to be sunny and gorgeous for at least the next two days.
Climbed Mt. Success, with beautiful views back over to Washington. There was lots of mud and slick rock and the hiking was steep all over. This section, as well as most of Southern Maine is known to be as difficult or worse than the White Mountains. As soon as we crossed into Maine, I felt as if the trail wanted to hurt me. The ‘ledges’ approach to the summit of Mt. Carlo was just one of these examples.
Steep climbing up to, and between the three peaks of Goose Eye Mountain. It was super windy on the summits. We stopped for lunch out of the wind and dried out our things, which was followed by an extremely tricky descent to Full Goose campsite for a quick rest and water. We descended further to the Mahoosuc Notch: a ‘short’ stretch between two mountainsides into which boulders the size of small building have fallen, and the ‘trail’ is a free-for-all where you have to navigate this cacophony of stone. The one-mile stretch took us TWO HOURS to traverse.
It was getting dark by the time we exited the ‘notch’. We set up camp, knowing that first thing the next morning, we’d have to hike up the steepest mile of the entire Appalachian Trail, known as Mahoosuc Arm: ascending over 1,600 ft. in less than a mile.
Stay tuned for the next captivating episode of Fresh's blog, where the brutal climbs of Southern Maine are catalogued in stunning detail.
Fully enjoyed being with you vicariously. Now, back to your music. I need to find a cruise.
You’re closing in on the end of the Apalachin Trail. Really enjoying all your commentary. Gorgeous pics… thanks for sharing.
I love reading this. Would rather be hearing you, but this is good.
Another great write up and adventure.